Our Havanese Magazine
A bi-monthly magazine designed to delight, inform and educate all Havanese lovers.
Our Havanese mails a complimentary copy of each issue to U.S., Canadian and overseas Havanese judges. We have a growing list of Havanese subscribers from all corners of the globe.
Read these glowing words from both subscribers and judges
(names withheld for privacy).
From subscribers:
“Great new magazine. Will really help with articles like you have in it.”
“It will be a great resource for all of us newbies (to the breed).”
“Color is perfect and all the articles are interesting, especially the judges opinions.”
“The magazine is impressive and well done right down to the quality of the paper. I look forward to many more informative issues.”
“Love it. Love it. Love it.”
From judges:
“Enjoy receiving your great magazine. I have been in ‘showing dogs’ since 1949 and yours is one of the most informative magazines. Please continue sending.”
“I like the magazine a lot. It’s one of the best. Please keep up the campaign to educate judges about your breed. As it is now, I see only one out of about 50 that is actually correct in size, proportion, topline and coat. It’s a wonderful breed and I would hate to see it lose its basic characteristics.”
“I am interested in continuing. It is a fabulous magazine. Packed with so much great info and beautiful to look at as well! I was so impressed that I forwarded the magazine to my nephew who is looking to get a Havanese.”
“Thanks for sending me your magazine. I do enjoy it and appreciate all breed specific articles. The Havanese is a delightful breed. As it is quite new to AKC approved breeds there are many interpretations of type by breeds and judges. It is most interesting to read the varied opinions.”
“I would appreciate you continuing to send me your bi-monthly breed magazine, Our Havanese. It is a valuable learning tool for those who judge the breed and those who anticipate applying to judge. Thank you very much.”
Join us!
HISTORY OF THE HAVANESE
Kathryn Braund
Toy dogs carry within their souls the history of mankind.
All through the passageways of time, dogs (particularly small dogs) served as scavengers cleaning up man’s wastes and garbage. They eradicated vermin such as rats and moles and clung closely to humans as comfort animal companions – most of the time to the needy second class citizens of the world – women.
Different types were carried over ancient trade routes from one civilization to another. In fact, lap dogs became so popular during Rome’s great days that Julius Caesar asked if Roman ladies had ceased to have children and had dogs instead (National Geographic). In 25 A.D. Strabo described one type of small dog which had come from a town in Sicily called Melita. He said, “…Whence are exported many beautiful dogs with long, glossy, silky hair called canis Melitei.” Strabo explained that this small canine was sometimes called Melitea Caletta, meaning one nourished for pleasure and Canis Digne Throno because princes held them in their hands sitting upon their estates.
Canis Melitei also bore the nickname of “shock” dog because of its white hair. Homer mentioned toy dogs, calling those who were kept in private houses as pets and did not belong to any species “table dogs,” because they could stand under the tables eating crumbs.
Artifacts remain our main source of study of toy breeds after Rome’s heyday since they served no utilitarian need in the main thrust of life during the unstable, explosive centuries that followed. Of course, they served purpose. “In the unwashed middle ages small ladyees poppees bere awaye the fleas.” (National Geographic). They performed with gypsies, jumping through hoops, turning somersaults and dancing on hind legs. A select few lived in land owners’ palaces spending most of their lives perfumed and combed, reclining on royal laps.
It was not until the heady period of the Renaissance – a boisterous, gaudy and tumultuous period – that handsome dwarfed canines joined high society. “It is really with Romanticism that the dog makes its triumphal entrance into literature,” wrote Calvert and Cruppi.
The first accomplished dog breeders of the Renaissance were the French. They created toy varieties in every color, leg length and coat type imaginable. The English, Italian and Spanish dog lovers quickly followed with their dwarfed ideals. Toy dogs won such high favor in England that in 1576 the annual budget for royal dogs was 100,000 gold crowns. There were so many dogs wandering about Henry VIII’s palace that he finally ordered all dogs to be contained outside “except some small spanyells for ladies or others.”
Spain’s dwarf dogs (Spaniels) were noted for temperaments awash with sweetness and merriment as well as for abilities to hunt and scavenge. Used often for crossbreeding with these dwarfed spaniels was the canis Melitei, now called the Maltese. Each cross was used to impart beautiful coats to other toys, much as the Bull Terrier in later times was used to impart strong heads to other terriers. In fact, the double-coated Skye Terrier was once called the Skye Maltese Terrier. And while the following quote has nothing to do with this story, the old Skyte Club of Scotland standard stated, “Back level and slightly declining from top of hip joint to shoulders.” Interesting old-fashioned wording indeed! The Havanese 2001 standard calls for the Havanese top line to rise, “slightly from withers to rump.” The other other Spaniel which had a similar rise was the English Water Spaniel. It now resides in oblivion!
Emerging from one successful crossbreeding of the Maltese with the small Barbet were the Silky Toy Poodle and the Tenerife (Bichon Frise). The French had developed the Barbet from the rough water dog. Canis Aquaticus, who had been carried from Russia to many European countries. Named Poodle in France, Pudel in Germany and Cao de Aqua in Portugal, the French called it, Canichbe, Chien Canne or le petit barbet. The Barbet was a small dog weighing from 15 to 20 pounds, with long, curly hair. In 1845, W.C.I. Martin wrote that he grouped the little Barbet with “Spaniel and fancy varieties,” saying of them, “hair, long and fine; muzzle, moderate; forehead, developed; scent, acute; intelligence at a high rate.”
In 1960, Dr. Erich Schneider-Leyer, a renowned European canine authority, completed his encyclopedic volume entitled Dogs of the World. He wrote: “There is a good deal of uncertainty regarding the origin and distinctive features of the many French Toy breeds.” He tells us that Reichenbach in 1836 described the following types of “long-haired Bolognese Toys; the Silky Poodle, the Bouffet, the Burgos, the Brevibilis, the Flammeus, the Pyrame, the Bichon, the Maltese and the Lowchen.”
Dr. Schneider-Leyer then described the similarities and differences of four Bichon varieties, the Bolognese, the Havanese, the Maltese and the Tenerife (Bichon Frise). He tells us that in 1960 there were NO official English standards for any of the Bichons except for the Maltese.
Dr. Schneider-Leyer’s description of the rare Havanese in 1960 is as follows: “11 to 12-1/2 inches tall, with a furry coat, in silky waves intermingled with larger locks. Color white or beige or solid chestnut-brown. Spots on the ears or patches of beige, grey or black permissible.”
He wrote that the four – the Bolognese, Havanese, Maltese and Tenerife (Bichon Frise) – were similar in body. “Body longer than high. Back straight and loins broad, strong and muscled.”
The 2001 Havanese standard calls for a topline, “rising slightly from withers to rump (and) is a result of moderate angulation both fore and aft combined with a typically short upper arm.”
Dr. Shchneider-Leyer does not make mention of a short upper arm. No other standard does either.
The 1997 FCI standard of the Havanese states the following: “Topline is straight, slightly arched over the loin.”
Dogs and standards are always subject to change!
Unfortunately, there is definite dogdom disagreement as to whether a “short upper arm” is correct as is stated in the 2001 American standard. It is believed the front leg bones should be in correct proportion to one another. A “short upper arm,” is typically a fault and by exaggerating shortness in the upper arm, one can cause differences in the growth patterns of the front legs and also in personality. There are breeds that have back legs slightly longer than the front legs. These give a natural rise to the topline. Many in dogdom prefer the FCI standard of 1997 be followed; “Topline is straight, slightly arched over the loin.”
Another close relative of the Havanese, not mentioned above, is the Coton de Tulear. Even the Lhasa Apso, of oriental heritage, was of similar type as observed in photographs of 50 years ago.
Christopher Columbus opened a whole new world when he landed on Cuba. Settlers with slaves and merchants with workers hurried to settle New Spain. Most transported their pet cats and dogs along with domesticated animals. It needs to be noted that for centuries small dogs and cats were welcome on ships. They chased and ate rats. And small dogs often performed with sea-going musician masters hired to entertain as well as calm miserable and frightened humans on the often dreadfully long and gruesome voyages. Many dogs and coats which survived foul weather voyages with rotted food and roach and other insect-soiled vats arrived in the arms of merchants to be sold to the wealthy or escaped overboard as soon as dry land was in sight.
Consequently, Cuba was settled with a variety of small as well as large dogs (Greyhounds, Mastiffs and Hounds). The medley of Toy Spaniels and mixed breeds came from all countries. Gradually they were changed by climate, terrain and crossings. One beautiful Toy Spaniel was developed during the 17th and 18th centuries. Beloved of New Spain nobility there are several theories as to what crosses were used to create this prized Cuban Toy. Firstly, one of its ancestors was the black and white Bolognese, a favorite of Italian landowners. Carried to Argentina by wealthy settlers, they were crossed with small Poodle types by peasants as the breed Jessamine – now extinct (Dog Encyclopedia). Other ancestors were presumed to be small Poodles, white preferably, bred by breeders “who preferred a miniature white dog with long silky hair and an extremely loving and lively character” (Bichon Havanese by Zoila Portuondo Guerra). White still appears to be the classic color of the modern Havanese. As Dorothy Goodale explains in her book, Havanese, “dark colors tend to fade and grizzle out as the dog gets older.” At odds is the FCI standard of March 3, 1997 which states, “the origin of the Havanese was in the Western Mediterranean basin, development Cuba.”
Whatever!
This beautiful white, silky and double-coated toy Spaniel possessed an extremely loving and lively personality. Originally called the Banquito de la Habana, it gradually sported new names: Cuban Spaniel, White Cuban and Havana Silk Dog. Traders, entranced and counting the money the dog would bring in Toy-dog crazy Europe, traded and carried them across the seas. The English nobility fell in love with the Cuban Spaniel. English dog brokers began recklessly breeding them – father to daughter, mother to son without any regard for structure and temperament. They were in a hurry to make them even smaller, the sizes elite ladies wanted. Soon the dogs became unhealthy and with nasty temperaments. Many writers thought this badly bred White Cuban was still the Cuban Havanese, which it was not. Even as late as 1971, a contributor for the International Encyclopedia of Dogs edited by noteworthy dog authorities Stanley Dangerfield, Elsworth Howell and Maxwell Riddle, wrote, “The Havanese, now rarely seen, weighs two to four pounds and is pure white. It may have been called the Lion Dog because of its fighting habits.”
Nothing could be further from the truth.
In parts of Europe, the Havanese, as described earlier by Dr. Erich Schneidder-Leyer, thrived and then nothing was heard of it. In Cuba, the Havanese, came on hard times. As the political climate changed, so did their lives. Few could flee Cuba with their displaced masters in the tumultuous 1950s. Wealthy families “trusted their servants to take care of their pets while they were gone. They believed they would return home shortly; that the perilous times would not last. They did not realize Castro was in dead earnest about changing the way of life in Cuba…The government felt that time spent with dogs was wasted time that could be better put to use for people.” (Dorothy Goodale in Our Havanese Magazine, May-June 07). The delightful Toy moved in with the servants where they were like ‘kin’ to small children and herded family chickens. Those on the streets were grabbed to be eaten. People were poor and hungry! A few, of course, did make it out of the country. Most went to Europe.
The sole American interest in this almost forsaken Cuban Toy came from a Colorado breeder, Dorothy Goodale. She was able, in the late 1960s, to secure eleven dogs from families who had fled Cuba – first, the Perez and Fantasio families who went to Texas and later from a Cuban who had relocated in Costa Rica, Mr. Ezequiel Barba. He too was moving to Texas to live with a daughter.
Dorothy Goodale, the first lady of the American Havanese, followed the FCI 1963 standard in her breedings and founded the first American Havanese breed club. The dogs she received from these families averaged 10 lbs, “possessed nice sturdy little legs, the front legs shorter than their back legs,” giving them a bounce when they moved. “Their heads were blocky and fit their structures.” (Our Havanese Magazine, May-June 2007.)In fact, Dorothy and her husband, Bert, bred for blocky heads, even though the Havanese is not called a “head breed.”
The American Havanese Dorothy bred is not cobby like its relative, the Maltese. It is rectangular like it ancestors, the Barbet and the Bolognese. It is not as small as a Maltese. Unlike the Maltese it has a double coat, its outer coat silky, and its inner coat wooly (although not as wooly as its relatives, the Bolognese and the Coton). The perfect Havanese, according to the 2001 standard, is “without the harsh standoff guards hairs and wooly undercoat…”
Initially called the Bichon Havanais Fanciers Club of America the name was changed to the Havanese Fanciers Club of America to avoid confusion with the Bichon Frise club (their breed admitted to full AKC registration as a Non-Sporting breed in April 1973).
Several fanciers said to be dissatisfied with the slowness of progression towards AKC recognition formed a new club calling it the Havanese Club of America. This club obtained AKC recognition for the Havanese (Miscellaneous Class status as of February 1, 1996 and full registration as of January 1, 1999 – the 142nd breed accepted by the AKC.)
Dorothy Goodale no longer played any part in furthering the breed she had so patiently remolded. So she and her followers registered their stock with the United Kennel Club, naming their club the Original Havanese Club. (The UKC is the second largest canine registry in the world).
It was not until 1991 that the Havanese was listed in the Cuban Registry and formally named the Bichon Habanero. In 1993 it became the National Dog of Cuba. Breeding stock in Cuba was often crossbred with dogs from Europe, descended from dogs Dorothy Goodale sent there, after adding other Bichon family qualities by cross breeding. Some grew smaller with newly added Maltese inheritance; others grew larger with other Bichon crossings.
Havanese bred in Cuba are not eligible for AKC registration. The AKC Havanese foundation stock are those from the dogs obtained by Dorothy Goodale. FCI
stock are registrable with the AKC and have been imported to widen the U.S. gene pool. European Havanese influence is seen in the usually larger, longer and shorter legged Havanese. They do not always throw the exact teapot shaped tailset.
Like many other restructured breeds, it takes time to set type. Some Havanese puppies grow to 12 and 13 inches in height while others never get over 8-1/2 inches tall. The 2001 Havanese standard states: “The height range is from 8-1/2 to 11-1/2 inches with the ideal being between 9 and 10-1/2 inches.” Dwarf characteristics, including bowing, bends and crooks in the legs, as common in dogs as in human dwarfs, are still plaguing the breed. The 2001 standard states, “Forelegs are well boned and straight when viewed from any angle.”
But exaggeration of type, such as the 2001’s standard “short upper arm” may play a part in front bone formation. It is a well known fact exaggeration of a part of structure can cause other structural problems as well as personality problems. After all, the body, including the brain, is one. What affects one part can affect another part. Often neurological problems arise when breed enthusiasts fool with the dogs’ structure in order to make the breed they foster, unique.
The breed does not have to adapt to any new environment for its form and function. The Havanese is first and foremost a companion animal. This beautiful breed is truly a reflection of God’s love and joy. Males and females are sweet, adoring, willing, merry and mischievous. They bubble over with their love for small children whom they consider kin. They are clean and fastidious house dogs, insatiably curious and discerning, a comfort to their owner’s every mood, yet they can race over the ground as swiftly as a herd of deer, almost flying in their exuberance of life and joy, chasing each other at a full gallop, hair in the air, tails awry, mouths grinning, eyes alight.
Let’s not fool with their outstanding personality points, their easy trainability, their high intelligence, their willingness to please. Let’s not exaggerate sound conformation for a fad or ephemeral visual appeal. The Havanese is a breed to treasure.
GROOMING YOUR HAVANESE
Eve Fogarty
We presented this excellent grooming article in our first Our Havanese issue. We repeat it here for two
reasons: 1) because of many requests, and 2) it says it all in an easy to read, short and to the point article.
One of the most important things we can do to care for our Havanese is to groom them correctly on a daily basis. Daily grooming enhances the Havanese coat by clearing away loose hairs and dirt. It also provides us with an opportunity to carefully inspect our dogs to ensure they are free from parasites and other skin irritations. The result will be a beautiful, clean, lustrous Havanese coat and happier, more confident dog. Daily grooming also provides us with a wonderful opportunity to spend relaxing, enjoyable and purposeful time with our Havanese. You are the critical factor in ensuring that your daily grooming sessions are enjoyable. Your knowledge of proper grooming techniques and tools, and your positive mental attitude will both play a major role.
THE BASICS OF GROOMING
Frequency: The components of proper grooming include brushing, bathing and care of the nails, teeth and ears. Although the brushing must occur on a daily basis, other elements of grooming will vary based on the individual dog. If your dog appears dirty or begins to smell, you should bathe him after first brushing him thoroughly to remove loose dirt, debris and tangles from his coat. Nail trimming is usually necessary once per month unless your dog spends a great deal of time walking or running on pavement which will wear his nails down. Your dog’s teeth should also be brushed at least once per week using special toothpaste designed for dogs and a toothbrush. A buildup of tarter can be removed by your veterinarian.
Brushing: The equipment you will need to properly groom your Havanese includes the following: Grooming table or other sturdy table or surface covered with a towel or rubber-backed bath mat. Spray bottle of conditioner (e.g., ICE, Pet Silk or The Stuff) diluted with water (3/4 cup of water to 1/4 cup of conditioner). Pin brush. Slicker brush (with a comfortable wooden handle). Flea comb (you may prefer a triangle shaped slicker for brushing your dog’s muzzle). To begin brushing, have your dog lay on its side (if you have not trained him to do this he will in time with your diligence and persistence). Mist his side with conditioner prior to brushing in order to protect his coat from breakage. Some owners prefer to begin brushing a leg from the foot up leading to the main body. Others prefer to begin on the stomach or back. For our purposes, we will assume you are starting with the front leg brushing it upwards gently. Follow this brushing with the greyhound comb. If the comb catches in the coat, rebrush the area with the slicker or pin brush and follow again with the comb. Many owners and groomers use a slicker rather than a pin brush. This is a matter of personal preference. After completing the leg, begin on the body. Start by making a small part on the body hair grasping the top section of the part in your hand and holding it away from the part. Brush the section below the part gently as you did on the legs. Follow the brushing with the greyhound comb. If necessary, repeat brushing to clear any tangles them recomb the area. Make another part, spray that layer and continue the brushing and combing procedure. Follow this procedure until the entire side, including the front and back legs, is complete. When one side is complete, have your dog lay on its other side. Mist with conditioner and begin with the front leg as before. Continue misting, brushing, combing, rebrushing and combing until the entire side is complete. Repeat the procedure for your dog’s chest and stomach. Once you have completed brushing and combing the body, begin working on the head, ears and muzzle. Brush the neck, both front and back, using the same procedure as before: gentle brushing followed by combing until all tangles are removed. Next, gently brush the muzzle using the triangle-shaped slicker brush, small pin brush or fine-tooth comb (e.g., flea comb). You will also want to use specially designed eye wipes or clean cotton balls to remove debris from the corners of your dog’s eyes.
It is important to praise your dog throughout the grooming process ensuring that it is a pleasant and rewarding experience for him. Small treats, words of praise and a bit of relaxation time will add to his and your enjoyment.
When you have finished grooming your dog, hug him, offer a treat and lift him off the grooming table placing him gently on the floor. He will run around with the sheer joy of being well groomed and loved!
The end of the grooming session is a great time to play with him as it sets the stage for the next day’s grooming session.
Consistent daily grooming will result in a happier and healthier dog.
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